FAQ: Audio Newbies’ Most Common Questions

Last edited: November 2nd, 2025 (razan/zerostresslevel)
Simply put, no.

This question assumes that certain audio products provide an inherent advantage in gaming, regardless of context—but that’s just not the case.

Take players like Aceu and other top-tier FPS pros—some of them use nothing more than stock Apple EarPods.
Yes, the same ones Apple used to include for free with iPhones and iPads. If high-end gear truly made a difference, they wouldn’t be dominating with budget earphones.

While it can be a value argument that earphones such as the Apple EarPods can be boosting certain frequencies that might be more "advantageous" for gaming, this trend isn't even consistent.
G2's NiKo has used 2 different IEMs (7Hz-Salnotes Timeless & Truthear x crinacle Zero) with 2 very distinct tunings, TenZ from Sentinals has also used 2 different IEMs (Moondrop x crinacle Blessing2:Dusk & 64 Audio A18s).

Even when we see professional esports players using specific headphones or IEMs, it's almost always due to sponsorships from brands like Razer, Corsair, or HyperX—not because those products are inherently superior for gaming.

At the end of the day, what matters most is personal comfort, familiarity with your audio setup, and proper in-game settings.

Another article about gaming:
 

In-Ear Monitors are earphones that generally either use silicone or foam eartips (universal IEMs, abbreviated as UIEMs) or are molded to one's ears (custom IEMs, abbreviated as CIEMs) that go inside the ear canal.
This means that even earphones like the Sony MDR-EX15 or JBL Tune 110 are considered IEMs.

How earphones are categorized:

  • IEMs: Any earphone that have eartips or are molded to one's ears, regardless of type or connection (there are wireless IEMs—often called "TWS").
  • UIEMs: Universal IEMs are earphones designed to fit most users with interchangeable silicone or foam eartips. Unlike custom IEMs, they don’t require molding and offer a more affordable (not all the time), off-the-shelf option for various users.
  • CIEMs: Custom IEMs are earphones molded to exactly fit your ear, using an impression of your ear canal and outer ear. They don’t require eartips since the shell matches your ear’s shape perfectly.
  • Flathead/Earbud: Any earphone that do not have eartips, regardless of connection type.
 
I have compiled a list of budget IEMs you might want to consider:
 

Imagine you're trying to listen to music stored on your computer or smartphone. This music is saved in a digital format, essentially a series of 1s and 0s that represent the audio signals in an audio file.
However, our ears can't interpret signals of 1s and 0s directly; they need to be transformed into audio signals we can hear.
 
Digital-to-Analog Converter (DAC):
 
Think of a DAC as a translator. It converts digital, discrete signals (1s and 0s) into analog, continuous signals that speakers or headphones can use to produce sound.
Without this conversion, the digital files would remain silent to our ears.

Amplifier:
 
Once the DAC has converted the digital signals into analog signals, this signals might still be too weak to drive speakers or headphones effectively.
An amplifier steps in to boost this signal (apply "Gain"), providing the necessary voltage and power to ensure the sound is clear and at a suitable listening level.
 

Do you need them? 

Yes, otherwise there would be no sound production!
However, this question is more commonly seen when asking about standalone DACs and amplifiers.

A common situation that a newbie would find themselves is when they want to use IEMs with their smartphone.
Since smartphones have speakers and can produce sound, it means that they already have an onboard DAC and amplifier.
However, due to the absence of an analog output (3.5mm audio jack) on most phones, there is no way to plug in the IEMs directly into the smartphone.

This is where it is recommended to purchase a "dongle DAC/AMP".



(Apple's USB-C to 3.5mm adapter)

 
The Apple USB-C to 3.5mm adapter shown in the image above likely provides sufficient sound quality and amplification for your headphones, and for most people, it serves as the only amplifier and digital-to-analog converter (DAC) you'll ever need.

To add a few disclaimers before continuing:
  • Outside of North America and Australia, the Apple dongle runs at 0.5VRMS where it normally runs at the full 1VRMS. This means that the lower voltage version will approximately output 6dB less gain, or in other words, "be 6dB quieter". Alternatives to the Apple dongle without a lower voltage version would be dongle DAC/AMP combos with the CX31993, KT02H20 and CS43131 chips - most notably Venture Electronics Abigail (Pro) (CX31993), FiiO JA11 (KT02H20) and JCally JM20 (CS43131). [Disclaimer: they can be iffy with quality control]
  • The Apple dongle has a default pre-amplification value of -5120/-15360 (which equals to -20dB) on all Android phones if not bypassed. This means that using this Apple dongle on Android will effectively give you much "lower volume" than on devices like a Windows PC. This issue hasn't been resolved on all phones yet as of the Android 16 update (Samsung phones in particular) and also appears on some dongles without hardware volume control in varying degrees. Click here for further information.
  • The construction leaves much to be desired. You're paying 9 USD for a dongle, you get what you pay for.
  • It is rather short, which would be perfect for mobile use, but not so much for desktop when your cable + dongle length leaves the rest of the cable in an awkward position when trying to reach your USB-C port (even worse if you don't even have one on your motherboard). Therefore it is recommended to get a USB extension and a USB-A to USB-C adapter if necessary.

Now with that out of the way, let's go!


In rare situations such as when using particularly high-demand equipment you may require more power than what this adapter provides.
However, unless you're specifically interested in tube amplifiers or already have very particular audio preferences, the Apple dongle and the alternatives should be enough.
If you're looking to enhance your headphone sound, learning about equalization (EQ) may be more beneficial than just increasing power.
If you think you need more power or voltage, it could be because you're using headphones that are insensitive, in which case a deeper discussion of your needs would be helpful.
In short, while it's good to explore all available options and have in-depth discussions about your audio setup, for most users, the Apple dongle and the alternatives are straightforward and effective solutions.


Myths surrounding DACs/Amplifiers
 
I've attached a video from Crinacle who is the most influential IEM oriented YouTuber/Content creator down below explaining why you don't need an extensive DAC and amplifier solution, but to give you a simple rundown:


Myth 1 + 2: Power & "Improving sound"

The idea that headphones or IEMs always need a lot of power to sound good is a myth. 
 
While some high-impedance models benefit from amplification, most consumer and even audiophile-grade headphones and IEMs are designed to run just fine from phones, laptops, and basic audio interfaces.
 
Efficiency matters more than power.
 
Sensitivity (measured in dB/mW or dB/1VRMS) determines how easily a headphone or IEM reaches a given sound pressure level ("volume"). 
Many modern models are highly efficient, meaning they don’t require a crazy amp to sound great.
 
More power doesn’t mean better sound.
 
Overpowering highly sensitive headphones can actually cause distortion or degrade audio quality.
Unless you're using something like a Modhouse Tungsten or any electrostatic headphones, a good DAC/amp is more about clean signal processing than sheer wattage.

For most people, their existing device (assuming it fits the criteria for their use case) provides enough power. The key is matching the right gear, not just cranking up power output.


Myth 3: Source of Power "Quality"

People within "audio science" circles actively record measurements of DACs and amplifiers in order to distinguish between different products within objective means.

One of these objective means is "SINAD" which stands for Signal to Noise and Distortion ratio.
SINAD measures how clean an audio signal is by comparing it to noise and distortion, but it shouldn't be the sole factor in evaluating audio gear.

"The higher the SINAD the better a DAC or amplifier"
 
While useful in lab tests, it doesn't always reflect real-world performance, as differences in high SINAD values may be inaudible.
It also oversimplifies by combining noise and distortion into one number without considering how they affect sound quality.
Some manufacturers optimize for high SINAD purely for marketing, which doesn't guarantee better performance.

If you'd like a really in-depth article from Headphones.com discussing why SINAD isn't the "be all, end all" I'd suggest checking out this article:

If you think you still need a standalone DAC and amplifier or want a visual representation:
That being said, if you or someone wants to have a serious discussion about audio sources, don't dismiss it. It's important to have some level of discussion before deciding whether the Apple dongle meets your/their needs.
 

Equalization, often shortened to "EQ," is the process of adjusting the level or amplitude of specific frequency bands within audio.

An equalizer is the tool which achieves this adjustment.

In audio gear such as speakers, headphones, and IEMs, this means you can modify their sound to suit your preferences, as long as you don't distort the drivers by doing this.

Useful videos about EQ:

Simply put, sound signatures are the various ways how audio (music, games, movies, etc.) is perceived.
They are hard to describe to someone who has never heard different sound signatures, but terms like "bright," "warm," "neutral," "dark," and "thin" are frequently used within the audio space.

To get a better idea of what these terms might describe, check out this video:

Note that the terminologies in this video refer only to your audio gear's sound signature.
This means that, for example, while "warm" in the video might not be exactly "warm" in real life, the sound will be warmer compared to the audio gear you are using.

Also, please note that different people will likely have slightly different sound signature preferences.


A driver is the core component of devices like speakers, headphones and earphones that produces sound. There are different types of drivers, the most common being the dynamic driver.
All drivers include a component that moves back and forth when an electrical signal is applied, thereby producing sound.

The size and number of drivers do not necessarily determine sound quality; it solely depends on the implementation of the drivers and the resulting frequency response.
However, many people fall for the marketing strategies of some audio brands, believing that more or bigger drivers equal better sound quality, which is not necessarily true.

Planar-magnetic and electrostatic drivers are not inherently superior. They are simply more expensive because their technology is relatively new compared to dynamic drivers.
They do not necessarily sound better than dynamic drivers and are usually appreciated for their unique quirks.

Further information: How do headphone drivers work?

1. Quality control: These issues are incredibly common in cheaper products.
Examples of poor quality control include but aren't limited to uneven sound from both Left and Right side (Channel imbalance) and strong deviations as to how they sound compared to other units (e.g. muffled sound).

2. Build quality: Can cause the audio product to have a shorter lifespan. Usually caused by poor design choices, poorly selected materials and manufacturing processes.